Friday, June 13, 2025

Growing strawberries

Recently a reader posted a question as follows: "I need some help please. If you would. I live in N. Idaho and for the love of me, I cannot grow strawberries. Yours seem to flourish with great wonder. Could you please post about how you plant, fertilize and water your berries so that they produce so well. I've put in new plants. Used berry fertilizer and sometimes manure. Mulched and watered regularly and still nothing. I very much would appreciate any thoughts or suggestions. Thank you."

Oof. That's a tough one because, I'm sorry to say, I don't do anything special for the strawberries once they're established (except to protect them from the deer, of course). I don't mean to sound flippant, but I've just never had any problems with them (except for the deer, of course).

That said, here's how we prepare strawberry beds and strawberry plants.

In both our previous home and our current one, our native dirt is heavy with clay – sticky mud in the spring and rock-hard in the summer. That's one of the reasons we gave up trying to grow anything in the ground and switched to raised beds. To these raised beds, we add a 3-2-1 mixture of native dirt, compost, and sand (three parts dirt, two parts compost, one part sand), plus any enhancements we have on hand (leaves, composted sawdust, etc.). The sand is a permanent way to keep the clay broken up; the compost obviously adds nutrients; and the native dirt is the most economical medium since we already have it. Now that we have livestock, future compost will come from our own animals.

When building our gardens, since we're working on a large scale, we'll often bring in sand and compost by the dump-truck load from landscaping companies. Sometimes we'll even bring in topsoil (which, for the record, is often no better than the native dirt; we've been known to dub it "top clay").

With these elements mounded up, Don will use the tractor to mix. He'll scoop the 3-2-1 ratio of elements into a pile with the tractor bucket, then use the tractor rototiller to mix thoroughly. Once this is prepped, he'll bucket it up and scoop it into the raised beds.

Since strawberries are a permanent plant, and since soil settles over time, we tend to overfill the strawberry beds to allow for that. Then it's a matter of planting the strawberries.

If you buy bareroot strawberry plants, begin by soaking the bundle of plants in water for a couple of hours to rehydrate the roots and break dormancy. After this, trim a couple inches off the bottom of the roots. Trimming not only allows plants to be planted more easily, but it allows the roots to be fanned out properly for best results (less crowding). It also stimulates root growth. Here are two plants: Top with untrimmed roots, bottom with trimmed roots.

When planting, scoop out a hole and fan out the roots. Don't bury the crown of the plants. Pat firm and voilĂ .

I used to mulch strawberries, but I don't any longer. Mulching seems to prevent runners from taking roots; and the more runners that take root, the quicker the plants will create a thick canopy and shade the soil from getting too dry. In essence, left alone, strawberries become self-mulching.

I never fertilize my strawberries. It's not that I'm opposed to it; it's just that I never think about it, and they seem to produce well despite that. The most I'll do is add compost in the spring; and even then, often I don't.

The big debate in the strawberry world is June-bearing vs. everbearing. I prefer everbearing because I like getting fruit the whole summer. However I've come to prefer everbearing for another reason, and this is purely anecdotal.

In our last garden, we had both everbearing and June-bearing varieties. The everbearing strawberries, once they were established, produced loads and loads of berries, year after year after year. The June-bearing beds produced heavily for the first three years, and then sorta gave up. The plants were perfectly healthy, but they produced no fruit. As in, zero. After three years of no fruit, it got to the point where I just ripped them up and used the beds for something else. I don't know if I did something wrong with those strawberries, or if June bearers tend to do that anyway, but I've come to prefer everbearing. Just my two cents.

In summer weather, I water the strawberries often – every day if the weather is hot, and every couple of days if the temps are moderate.

Right now I have two varieties of strawberries: My beloved Fort Laramies, and some Ozark Beauties I'm experimenting with (and so far am very pleased by).

I don't know if this information will be helpful to the reader, but I hope so.

5 comments:

  1. Patrice, I have heard in the past that strawberry plants need to be replaced every 3 years. So maybe it is for the plants that give it their all for that one push in May/June.

    I moved my strawberries into my high tunnel since 1). I got tired of the birds eating them. (It wasn't easy to harvest w/ the netting.). 2). I don't need to weed anymore since grass seed isn't blowing in there as well.

    I have mostly ever bearers which will start as early as May & continue until November in there. It makes a nice treat to walk in at the beginning or end of the season & have a small snack.

    Debbie in MA

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  2. Just a major THANK YOU for recommending the Fort Laramie strawberries. I bought them 3 springs ago and have had lots of berries since. We planted them in June of 23 (after last frost ) and let them take off. In a bed that was composted and tilled. We had drip tapes in it and after we planted we put shavings around the plants to keep down the weeds. The plants flourished and we were pleased with the way they were growing. We did not expect to get many berries the first year but we got over 5 gallons of them and last year we got more than that close to double. We bought 100 plants based on how the other plants that stopped producing on us ( also June Bearing plants like yours were ). We never expected to have this many berries from those plants and now often call up friends and let them know the strawberries are in, come pick them. We do not have any non takers when we do that. So again a HUGE Thank You! And God Bless!

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  3. I inherited both June bearing and ever-bearing strawberry plants when I lived in coastal BC (zone 6a/b). So I don't know the varieties.

    I did learn that the ever bearing needed to replenish themselves every few years. And by that I mean I would take the fruit off and let the runner 'run' so to speak. So bout every 4th year, I wouldn't get fruit. The production would fall off and I knew the next year would be a year to focus on the runners and not the fruit. I'd then replant the plants the runners produced and remove the spent older plants.
    I'd top up the soil annually with a bag or two of compost.
    SJ now in California

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  4. For bird control, I tried something I read on the internet and it worked. I painted several dozen small rocks fire engine red.

    When the strawberries had formed but was just showing a hint of pink, I'd scatter the rocks through out the strawberry bed. The birds would peck at the colored rocks and by the time the strawberries were ripe and red the birds had lost interest.

    I was skeptical when I first read about the technique but it worked for me.
    SJ now in California

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    Replies
    1. I love that idea if I ever plant them outside again.
      Debbie in MA

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